Iyo Matsuyama Castle: Exploring One of Japan’s Top 12 Original Keeps | A Family Maze Adventure & Katō Yoshiaki’s Legacy

1. Essential Data Before You Visit

2. [Field Report] Strategic Analysis & My Insights

A Maze-like Fortress Born from an Obsession with Defense

The most striking feature of Matsuyama Castle is its “Renritsu-shiki” (connected-style) keep, where multiple turrets (Yagura) are linked around the central tower. Walking through it, I felt constantly targeted from blind spots even after passing a gate. The sheer impregnability is overwhelming.

Katō Yoshiaki spent 25 years building this ideal fortress. However, just before its completion, he was ordered to relocate to another domain. Thinking of his regret at having to entrust his life’s work to another, the intricate details found in every corner of the building resonated with me even more deeply.

The Evolution of Stonework and the Massive “Climbing Walls”

During our climb, I noticed spots where the stone-stacking technique changed drastically. Seeing clear evidence of different eras and craftsmen is like looking at a growth record of the castle itself.

The scale of the “Nobori-ishigaki” (Climbing Stone Walls), which stretch from the base to the summit, is also breathtaking. While we opted for “modern technology” (the lift) this time, the walking trails are well-maintained. Climbing on foot would truly let you experience the strategic difficulty of conquering this peak.

The Trap of the “Hidden Gate” and a Scenic Skywalk

The tactical ingenuity here is fascinating. For instance, the “Kakure-mon” (Hidden Gate) looks like a dead end or a side path at first glance, but it’s designed to launch a surprise counter-attack from behind. These psychological traps are everywhere—it was a constant series of discoveries for my son and me.

For the ascent, we jumped onto the gondola just before departure. For the return, at Keigo’s insistence, we took the open-air lift. The feeling of descending the mountain with the wind in our faces was the perfect reward after a hard day of “castle storming.”

3. Family Guide: Visiting with Kids

• Keigo’s (8) Reaction: Upon seeing the mascot “Yoshiaki-kun,” he asked if it was “Ashikaga Yoshiaki” (the last Shogun of the Muromachi period). It seems his historical dots are finally connecting! He also enjoyed the steep stairs inside the keep, calling it “special training!”
• Dad’s Top Recommendation: Samurai Experience There was a space where you can put on armor yourself for free (at the time of our visit). With both adult and child sizes, you can transform into samurai together. It’s a fantastic photo op and a highlight for kids.
• Dad’s Tips: Shoes are prohibited inside the keep; be careful as the provided slippers can be slippery. Also, besides the 100-castle stamp, there are commemorative stamps for your travel log at the lift station.
• Lucky Encounter: We happened to catch a glimpse of the retro “Botchan Train” on our way. It runs infrequently, so if you see it, definitely stop for a look!

4. Castle Fuel (Lunch & Souvenirs)

• What we ate: Uwajima Taimeshi “Wild vs. Farmed Sea Bream Comparison Set” (at Kadoya/Marusui) A must-eat in Matsuyama. We indulged in comparing wild-caught and farmed sea bream. While the farmed fish had a great firm texture, the wild sea bream’s tenderness and delicate umami were surprising. Keigo noticed the difference too—we both agreed, “Wild is something else!” Mixing it with the special sauce and raw egg was divine.

• What we bought: The classic “Botchan Dango” (tri-colored dumplings) and Ehime Mikan juice to refresh our tired bodies.

5. Recommended Nearby Spots

• Where to go next: “Dogo Onsen Honkan” The best way to soothe your legs after all that walking. The entire Dogo Onsen area is charming, but the historic Honkan building is a must-see.
• Dad’s Advice: We went first thing in the morning, and it was still quite crowded. If you plan to bathe, expect a wait and manage your schedule accordingly.